{"id":168,"date":"2026-04-20T23:30:20","date_gmt":"2026-04-20T21:30:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ch1291.ch\/cms\/?p=168"},"modified":"2026-04-28T22:26:52","modified_gmt":"2026-04-28T20:26:52","slug":"first-100-kilometers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ch1291.ch\/cms\/en\/first-100-kilometers\/","title":{"rendered":"First 100 kilometers"},"content":{"rendered":"

After three days and over 100 kilometers, I can share my initial impressions. To put it briefly, it was fantastic, but also very challenging. My feet were aching. However, the stunningly beautiful scenery and the many stories I encountered along the way more than made up for it.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Day 1: Great conversations, missed the ferry<\/h2>\n

To arrive in Bregenz as early as possible, I need to change trains twice in Zurich. In St. Margrethen, many commuters from Austria get off the train at a quarter past seven to go to work in Switzerland. The return train, on the other hand, is sparsely populated; hardly anyone from Switzerland seems to work in Austria.<\/p>\n

Shortly after eight, I arrive at the shores of Lake Constance in Bregenz. This is where my tour begins. I don’t really like these beginnings. Of course, I’m very much looking forward to the tour. On the other hand, I know that there’s no reward without effort. And 1291 kilometers is no small feat. During the first recording by the lake, I struggle with the technology. Unfortunately, this is how things will continue for the next three days, more or less.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

On this trip, I would also like to meet some people along the way and learn about life on the border. My first meeting will be at the shoe store schuh-hand-werk.at,<\/a><\/strong> a beautifully designed shop that specializes in shoes made with the most sustainable production methods possible.<\/p>\n

I learn from Michael that only about 1 percent of the shoes are now produced in Austria, a small part comes from Portugal, and the rest from East Asia. Of course, I learn much more from Michael, but that will be shown in the documentary later. However, the documentary will only be made after the tour, so please be patient. Michael deserves heartfelt thanks for the hospitality at Schuh-Hand-Werk.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

After another hour, I arrive at the State Archives of Vorarlberg. There, I examine the files relating to the 1919 referendum, in which approximately 81 percent of the people of Vorarlberg voted in favor of joining Switzerland.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

I’m sifting through extensive archives that Markus Schmidgall, the historian, has compiled for me. From what I’ve seen so far, it’s clear that the topic was quite central at the time, with many articles from both Switzerland and Austria about the vote. However, the sheer number of articles is overwhelming. I should have allocated at least a full day just for the Vorarlberg State Archive, but unfortunately, I didn’t.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Fortunately, I was able to have a conversation with Markus Schmidgall. And when I mention that there will be more information about this in the film, it should not be misinterpreted. This is not a ‚promotional blog‘ for the film. It’s just that I would need too much time to create a good summary, and I don’t have that time here. However, I am looking forward to being able to address the topic of the ‚voting question‘ in the film, thanks to the materials and the interview. A heartfelt thank you to Markus Schmidgall for the conversation.<\/p>\n

From a hiking perspective, I would like to point out that the 1291 kilometers would not be feasible if Vorarlberg belonged to Switzerland. The two visits to Bregenz make my hiking life seem quite leisurely. And that’s how it was; I’ve never covered maybe only two kilometers in the first three hours of a hike before \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n

Around half past eleven, we finally set off. I walk along the lakeside promenade towards Lindau. After about an hour, I reach the border between Austria and Germany. Only a sign indicates that I am entering the Free State of Bavaria.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

I realize that the border between Austria and Germany essentially no longer exists. There are no customs houses; if there weren’t for a simple sign, no one would even notice crossing the border. Okay, the signs indicating speed limits are probably unnecessary on a hiking or cycling path, but I’m still surprised that there’s essentially nothing there.<\/p>\n

Along the lake, I come across many elegant residential areas, and there is also plenty of nature in between. However, the view of the lake is often blocked. It is only in Lindau that there is a great panoramic view of the lake and the Vorarlberg Alps.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

I need to hurry, as I have my third appointment of the day at half past two, this time with church musician Burkhard Pfomm.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

I talk to him about the historical event that Lindau was essentially reformed early on, almost as an island. Later, it «converted» to Lutheranism, but Markus Pflomm believes that a part of it still adhered to Zwingli’s teachings.<\/p>\n

Next door, there is also a Catholic church. This wasn’t always easy, but in the end, it also led to Lindau having two magnificent church buildings today. The two churches, in fact, spurred each other on during their respective expansions.<\/p>\n

In addition to the historical information, I enjoy the wonderful organ music that he plays, almost exclusively for ch1291.ch. Mr. Pflomm, with all the music in his ears, I would like to say thank you.<\/p>\n

The rest of the day was a bit less enjoyable. I didn’t leave Lindau for Friedrichshafen until after four o’clock. It’s still about 20 kilometers.<\/p>\n

So, I marched at a pace of well over five kilometers per hour towards Friedrichshafen. I allowed myself a few short breaks for filming, and yet, it turned out that I didn’t arrive in Friedrichshafen until after nine o’clock in the evening.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

The last ferry from Friedrichshafen to Romanshorn had already departed that day. The only train back to Switzerland would have gone via Stuttgart. Friedrichshafen train station was closed due to construction, and the replacement bus service departed from Friedrichshafen Mitte (wherever that might be). I was actually planning to ask a bus driver something, but he didn’t seem inclined to open the door so I could ask.<\/p>\n

I couldn’t find the city center of Friedrichshafen, and even if I had, it would have been pointless to try to get there in the ten minutes before my departure, especially with my tired feet. At least I found the Schwanen hotel, where I found a room and was still able to enjoy delicious cheese noodles, even though the kitchen was already closed.<\/p>\n

Day 2: Heading to \u00dcberlingen with bandages<\/h2>\n

I sleep in late this morning. Yesterday was an incredibly beautiful day, but also exhausting at the end. My toe on my right foot is hurting. The first thing I do after breakfast is go to the pharmacy. I buy a large pack of blister plasters, but I’m too proud to put them on right away.<\/p>\n

Consequently, I hobble along until the blister bursts. I almost stumble to the next bench to do what I should have done in Friedrichshafen, namely apply a blister plaster. A woman waiting for the bus asks me if I still intend to go for a long walk with these feet.<\/p>\n

I mumble something to myself, but I don’t dare talk about my project ch1291.ch.<\/a> <\/strong>I apply two plasters right away, and yes, it feels much better afterward. Next time, I’ll choose a seating area in the city. Someone is always watching anyway… But, and I’ll say it here, I don’t want to take a picture of my feet. Of course, this would make the AI image in the trailer much better, but I’m sorry, it’s just too intimate for me.<\/p>\n

Along the way, you encounter stunning beaches time and time again. It should be mentioned, however, that most of them are privately owned. And so, the photo below is somewhat misleading, because there was still a wire fence between me and that dream beach. Sometimes, reality isn’t quite as idyllic.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

A little later, I wander through a large campsite. Almost all of the RVs are still unoccupied, it seems the season hasn’t started yet. I would have liked to talk to someone who owns an RV, but unfortunately, there’s no one around.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

I’m looking for a beach that’s open to the public. Finally, I found a great, open beach located almost exactly in the middle between Friedrichshafen and Meersburg.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

The expanse at this point is enormous. The water is crystal clear, and the view of the Alps is majestic. Less majestic, however, are the sections through the dense, large-scale grid structures.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

At first, I thought it was to prevent cyclists from passing through. Then I read that cyclists are allowed to pass through, but they have to push their bikes. Whether this is ultimately why this «cage» was created, so that cyclists can only pass through by pushing their bikes, I don’t know.<\/p>\n

Hiking means discovering something new. And so I take note of these things with wonder. I don’t have to understand everything I encounter, because if I did, I would stop, and there isn’t enough time for that.<\/p>\n

In the early afternoon, I arrive in Meersburg. The old town is enchantingly beautiful, and I wander around for a good hour before I realize, to my dismay, that I’m running late again.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Onward and upward, I tell myself, completely forgetting that I haven’t eaten or drunk anything. A rumbling stomach is less dramatic than a lack of something to drink. I wish for the next restaurant, but it doesn’t appear. Then I see colorful window shutters.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, it wasn’t an advertisement for a restaurant. I continue my thirsty journey until I find a small restaurant at the next campsite where I can get some help. I’m debating between non-alcoholic beer and water. In the end, I choose both, and the waiter spontaneously offers me the water for free.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

At the same campsite, I spot a camper with license plates from Lucerne. I strike up a conversation with Marco, who often travels to campsites in neighboring countries. He really appreciates the Lake Constance region because there are many great places to visit.<\/p>\n

I was able to record a short interview for ch1291.ch.<\/a><\/strong> I recorded both audio and video, but unfortunately not at the same time. However, I think we can somehow manage to make it work for the film. A big thank you to Marco for participating. And by the way, the great photo with the evening atmosphere also comes from Marco. Thanks!<\/p>\n

After \u00dcberlingen, there are still about 10 kilometers to go. I hurry along, because I don’t want to arrive again at nine o’clock and find out that the last train goes via Stuttgart and the station is currently under renovation. So I walk with quick, but also heavy steps towards my destination for the day. In the evening, shortly after seven o’clock, I arrive at the \u00dcberlingen-Therme train station and tiredly board the train.<\/p>\n

Day 3: Sore feet after Lake Constance.<\/h2>\n

Still half-asleep, I board the Forchbahn at half past six. In Zurich, I get my first shock: it’s not possible to buy a ticket from Schaffhausen to \u00dcberlingen-Therme. So, I buy two tickets, one from Schaffhausen to Radolfszell and another for the rest of the journey.<\/p>\n

On the train, I see that my ticket, which says Schaffhausen as the departure station, is not valid for long-distance trains, even though I specifically selected this journey at the ticket machine. I ask the conductor. She doesn’t know what the current rules are either. An older gentleman says it should be fine, as he also needs to go to \u00dcberlingen-Therme. I sit down next to him. We start talking. J\u00fcrg is taking his annual skipper course because he believes owning a boat on Lake Constance comes with a certain responsibility. We soon arrive in Singen, but we are three minutes late. I can’t definitively say whether my ticket was valid, as no one from Deutsche Bahn was present.<\/p>\n

Being just three minutes late is enough to miss the connecting train in Singen. We see the train departing just as we arrive. If it had waited for 30 seconds, it would have been enough. Since there is only one train per hour from Radolfzell to \u00dcberlingen, we lose an hour. However, the conductor says that we should take the train to Radolfzell in 20 minutes, then we would at least have a connection there, even though it is not in the timetable, but that is how it is.<\/p>\n

There’s still time to do an interview with J\u00fcrg for my project. Later, however, I realize that the camera didn’t record anything. Apparently, not only was the DB still tired, but I was too. So, dear J\u00fcrg, if you happen to read these lines, please get in touch. I would like to do the interview again. Sometimes it takes two attempts, and that’s the same with the DB.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

From \u00dcberlingen, the path quickly climbs upwards, impressively passing through a carved-out sandstone hollow. The route to Ludwigshafen mostly follows an elevated and pleasant hiking trail above the shore, offering stunning views of the lake. For the first time on the tour, I encounter many fellow hikers.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

The end of the lake is approaching. Surrounded by many fruit trees, I slowly bid farewell to Lake Constance. This marks the completion of the first stage of my tour. For two and a half days, I was accompanied by this «Swabian Sea.» It was, or rather is, a relationship with a bit of distance; the beautiful, tranquil sections on hiking trails don’t necessarily make up the majority, and quite often I found myself traveling on asphalt for long stretches.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

After Lake Constance, the path unfortunately continues on asphalt through the green, hilly landscape. Along the way, I come across large asparagus fields. Three herding dogs watch over roughly the same number of sheep. The dogs look at me peacefully. Let’s just hope that the number of sheep isn’t due to the dogs‘ peaceful behavior or lack thereof.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Time and time again, I come across vast orchards. This beautiful display of blossoms more than makes up for the difficult stretches on my hiking trail.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Of course, the absence of the lake might make the area slightly less diverse overall. There are also many long stretches of straight road. On the other hand, the surrounding area is lush and green. As a hiker, I’m traveling alone. Only a few e-bike riders whiz past me. I can’t keep up with them in terms of speed, but I probably can in terms of effort.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

After the village with the fitting name Wahlwies (there are almost only meadows), the path leads uphill. First on a stony path, then almost without any visible trail, I scramble upwards. Finally, I am in the forest, and the rich shade feels good. It was more than hot before. It can get quite sunny here, as I am almost at the northernmost point and it is April, and I am already sweating as if I were a berserker.<\/p>\n

The journey to the destination of M\u00fchlhausen (Engen) seems to take a while. Afterwards, I catch myself longing for the highway. On the navigation system, the two highway crossings serve as prominent landmarks. At the first point, I know there are still about 10 kilometers to go; at the second «meeting point,» there are about 4 kilometers left.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

When I look at it from above, as a Swiss person, I notice that there are clearly no speed limits here. It makes me think of the morning and I wish there was a DB train that would travel with the same enthusiasm.<\/p>\n

My feet are ‚burning‘, and the blister on my right toe is hurting again. I’m tired and more than happy when I reach the small M\u00fchlhausen (Engen) train station. According to the ticket machine, I should wait 50 minutes for the next train. However, after five minutes, one arrives. A fellow passenger informs me that I caught the train an hour earlier because it was running 10 to 15 minutes late. In this sense, I am reconciled with the DB (German Railways) again this evening.<\/p>\n

Conclusion:<\/strong> The first three days were tough, but also very intense and enjoyable. I struggled with both my feet and the technique. However, I’m optimistic that the next few days will bring improvement, because as the saying goes: practice makes perfect.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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